Trying to find the bar at Shepheard’s


My room was somewhere around the center of the 8th floor Nile side.

…After a short and breathy explanation that my visit was somewhat of a pilgrimage for me, I managed to get a handy discount and a room Nile side from the kindly receptionist.

From my balcony, during the day I watched the white-hot feluccas gliding along that enormous expanse of water until at night I watched it fade into a dark mirror while the lights of the city came on either side and young lovers stole out for walks among the shadows of the palm trees along the river’s banks to indulge in surreptitious hand holding and whispered promises.

The original Shepheard’s burnt down in 1952, sadly, and with the rebuild there was no roof-top Long Bar restored, even more sadly.

I eventually found the rather naff Napoleon Bar down in the basement–of all places after a roof top vista; it’s pretty tricky to see the Nile from a subterranean vantage point–which was empty and exceedingly disappointing.

I retreated to my balcony, drank a solitary bottle of Heineken beer from my room’s mini-bar and thought on about the clinking of champagne glasses, peals of laughter and sun-kissed slim bodies that must have elegantly shimmied and swooned around the former bar.

Oh well, you can search but you can’t always find everything you want.